Lubricating your Savage Bolt

First let’s cover the three types of lubrication you should or can use. They are CLP by Break Free, Corrosion X and Aeroshell 64. The first two are purely for rust protections. CLP is great for getting down into hard to reach places and foams and expands on contact. It is also quite thin and so can get into a lot of hard to reach places. Corrosion X, by the way I think that is a terrible name, is probably the best rust preventer out there but it’s quite thick. It does however have the benefit of being very sticky so it holds on to a metal longer. Because it is thick though it may be hard to get into small places. The last one Aeroshell 64 is purely a lubricant. This stuff is the best and it is incredibly temperature stable and rated to work way bellow freezing. Like -20c which is quite cold in F too. Colder than just about anyone will ever hunt in. Its temperature stability is the main reason I recommend it. Aeroshell 64 is also sticky and provided a great surface for friction reduction.

Now let’s take our save bolt apart. There are two main types so we will start with the older multi piece style first. Remove the BAS then remove the cocking sear button and pull out the firing pin. Then remove the pin that holds the bolt head on and you are 90% there. If you want to doo mild lubrication to a new gun this is usually far enough.

For those that want to go father you will need at least a 1/16in punch, a hammer, slotted screw driver and something with a small hole in it. You need the 1/16in punch to remove the retaining pin, which is aluminum by the way, and then you can remove the ejector plunger. These are often very dirty. I hold the spring with pliers and use compressed air to blast the gunk off it. There is also the ejector claw. That you use the slotted screw driver to push into the face of the bolt. Be careful there is a ball inside here. The spring inside here is also usually packed with gunk. Clean all springs and parts. Wipe off the gunk and then apply either CLP or Corrosion X to each then reassemble. These parts only need protection from rust.

Now the that head is done let us take the firing pin apart. Just rotate the rear captive nut until it comes apart. Hole onto all parts so nothing goes flying. Under neath the rear capture nut and washer are some threads and two flat spots on the firing pin shaft. This should be heavily greased with Aeroshell 64. Reason is that captive washer gets pushed along this part of the firing pin and this is often a section with a lot of drag. Using the grease minimizes this. Then coat all other parts with either CLP or Corrosion X with a thin coat for rust protection. Firing pin tip should be wiped off so minimal lubricant is on it. That area you do not want any thick greases because it could interrupt the firing pins moment through the bolt head. From here we can put it back together.

The bolt body is hardened steel however I have seen these rust so a complete coating of CLP or CrX works here both inside and out. Keep the inside clean the often get a powdery residue inside them that can make the sliding o internal components ruff.

For the bolt head I put Aeroshell 64 around the rotating glass black that is right behind the bolt head. Both sides of it and inside of it too. A little inside the through hole that the pin goes through to hold the head on the bolt body too, but not a lot.

We can start putting the rest of it together now. Last thing you should have to put Aeroshell 64 on is the sear button. I insert the firing pin and then the cocking sleeve then the sear. The cocking sleeve can get some great on its outside and inside too as it is a sliding and rotating component. If you are adding a bolt lift kit the bearings only need rust protection from either CLP or CrX. One the firing pin is inserted and the sleeve and sear button are in place I put a healthy amount of Aeroshell 64 on the cocking ramp of the bolt body. Work it back and forth a few times to make sure it get everywhere here.

Last item to grease with Aeroshell 64 is the inside of the rear glass block. It’s that C shaped thing that is right in front of the bolt handle and behind the cocking sear button. This part has to spin on the bolt body with every cycle so its inside needs to be slick. Also check for burs on the inside. The small ramp on the grass black can also get a little greasy because the bolt handle does run into this to make the primary extraction force.

With that you are done. If there are any parts that I did not mention just assume they get a coating of CLP or CrX which you should then wipe down to make sure it thin enough to not build up gunk.

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